I Have Walked Rajasthan for 14 Years. It Still Surprises Me.

A curator on what changes when you stop trying to see things and start trying to be seen by them.

## The fort before the world woke up

We were two travellers, my friend Marcus and me, and the watchman who let us in early because he knew my grandfather.

We sat in a window 400 years old and watched Jodhpur turn from black to blue to red. Nobody spoke. There was nothing to say.

## What I have learned in fourteen years

The places do not change. We do. A fort I have walked through eight hundred times still teaches me something on the eight-hundred-and-first.

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